London Fashion Week, the second, in chronological order and not by importance, saw a lot of emerging brand, on the side of great names, already established, as Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane, JW Anderson, and much more.
Today, the term ‘catwalk’ is used improperly: in London, to contrast post COVID-19 period, the major part of the brad chose a digital approach, very successful, based on teaser of collection, live streaming and video-presentations, transforming their own fashion available (almost) for everyone.
ONEG Team, according with our philosophy, talks about a part of the emerging designers able to transmit better their know-how.
Through its SS21, “Gala in the Pond”, 8ON8 proposes a kind of fashion with big shapes, less performing that don’t wrap the body. Among the creating proposed, flower textures, rainbow and color block emerge more. The brand show us a fashion, nearly, genderless, that hug the concept of ‘queer’ raising up manly traits.
Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, Creative Directors of the brand, draw inspiration from the three month of darkness of this ‘great’ year: COVID-19 quarantine. The two decide to propose the fashion version of L’Infinito by G. Leopardi thinking about the future of fashion, observing time, nature and their community. That’s why they show funny and floral patterns on shirts and knitwear, combined to panta-kilt and sustainable denim.
“Therapy” is the name of SS21 Collection presented during LFW. Through the show, the brand wants bypass the concept of ‘flaw’ and its many faces: its way to be considered and knew by the society and the pain it can produce. The runway wants to teach who believe to be not part of this reality, but the main problem is this kind of reality is made by us: we who watch and pretend that nothing happened, we who pursue the classic ideals of beauty. The Therapy Collection has little chromatic variety: black, green and blue, but what jumps to the eye are the chains, proposed in various forms, but the real question is, “Who is really chained? Who has a ‘flaws’ or who stigmatizes them?”.
Maximilian Davis, along with Nensi Dojaka, Saul Nash and Goomheo, present the SS21 Colection drawing inspiration from their background: activities, passions and culture. Maximilian proposes a strong figure, gritty combining colors to tailoring and elegant clothing. Nensi Dojaka, chooses to explore vulnerability through unstructured and ultra-feminine garments. Saul Nash takes to the field his path as a choreographer, focusing on the liberation of movements, using technical garments. Goomheo from the background to the Korean culture, playing on the contrasts between sporstwear, embroidery and fabrics.
Mixing this multitude of thoughts and know-how results in the exaltation of several dimensions of one’s way of being: all can exist at the same time and one does not exclude the other.
The brand bases its philosophy on the liberation and re-creation of identity through fashion, transcending borders. With the SS21, “Escapist”, a way of being and expressing unconventional beauty is proposed through an experimental design. The best adjective in this case (as much as it is too common and inflated) is ‘disruptive’: Maxxij brings to the stage a new vision of fashion through a very expressive path, strong contrasts between fabrics and colors and study of unexpected modeling structures.